Blade & Armour Care

Swords and the like are not toys. Store in safe place and maintain with care. When wielding be aware of your surroundings & act responsibly.


Many of our blades are made from carbon steel. To keep your carbon steel blade or plate armor in pristine condition correct maintenance should be practiced. Your product will arrive with a coat of oil, grease, or wax on it. These oils/waxes create a barrier stopping oxidization/ rust. With some swords there may be some white wax residue on the blade from the inside of the sheath (this will settle over time). Every time you touch the steel you will need to re-oil it, with exception to waxing. The acid in the sweat from your fingerprints can rust the carbon steel. Make sure you wipe fingerprints away before re-oiling your blade. Any sort of residue or contaminant (e.g. watermelon, bamboo juice) on the steel will need to be cleaned away first to prevent rusting. It is good practice to re-oil every 3-6 months depending on the humidity.


REMOVING OLD OIL: Use a clean dry cloth like an old T-shirt rag or paper towels. For stubborn grease/residue you can add a little window cleaner, methylated spirits or turpentine to the cloth. Do not get chemicals on any of the sword’s trim as it can destroy certain patinas, stains, finishes and materials. Cleaning chemicals are best avoided if your blade has a coloration patina.


PROTECTION: Option 1). For blades stored in their sheath.

Apply just enough oil to cover the blade. It does not need to be dripping wet. If the oil is applied sporadically, wiping / distributing it onto the blade with a scrap of paper works well, be careful not to cut yourself! Leaving this oil layer on the blade you can then sheath it.


There are several oils to choose from. Our recommendation is Superior Swords “Blade oil” / “Choji Oil” or silicone spray. We sell the oil on our website. Codes: OC01 / OC02

You can also use mineral or gun oil. WD40 or CRC work, though they dry out over time. Do not use cooking oils as they will eventually go rancid.


PROTECTION: Option 2). For exposed steel blades on display and armour.

If you prefer not to use wet oils - We sell a dry to the touch, clear, micro-crystalline wax polish/protectant called, “Renaissance Wax”. Codes: WAX01 / WAX02

This is perfect for exposed steel blades, steel fittings and armour. Once applied, the steel can be handled, without the need for immediate reapplication. Bugs and fluff will not stick to it, unlike wet oils.


Some swords & knives may have carbon steel hilt parts and scabbard fittings. These also need to be maintained in the same manor. Other common sword fittings are made from, brass, bronze, stainless steel, plated steel, plated alloy, or alloy. These materials require little or no maintenance.


It is crucial to store your blade correctly. If you have a plain leather scabbard it can cause rusting of the blade when sheathed for long periods of time. Even though it is a traditional product the leather sheath can retain moisture, also the chemicals used in tanning the leather can rust your blade. Of course it is ok to use your leather sheath. If you store your blade in it for a long period of time, e.g. one month + undisturbed, it can lead to rusting. Best practice is to keep a close eye on it for the first few months of storage. And use your discretion.


Keeping your blade oiled and wrapped in plastic, you can leave it almost indefinitely. Wooden & steel sheaths tend to be more forgiving to blades and not cause rusting like leather. Good practice is to keep all wooden scabbards out of direct sunlight to stop them warping.


If you do start to see dusty orange rust (in its early stages), this can easily be remedied using a product called “Autosol” Code: AUTO75 which we sell on our website. Though, if your blade starts to show some wear & age over time, it’s just character!